The best of Colombia in 12 days - our complete itinerary

I had been planning to visit Colombia for a long time , but, as often happens, other opportunities came up — friends inviting us to visit them in another country, a pandemic sweeping the world ... But we finally managed to fulfill our dream of getting to know our South American neighbor.

With only a few days there, we wanted to make the most of our time.

For those living in the US, Canada, or Brazil, Colombia might seem like a small country, but it’s actually quite large, with so much to offer. There are stunning landscapes, charming historic towns, bustling cities, dreamy beaches, and, as is often the case in big countries, significant time and logistics involved in getting from one place to another.

As a result, we decided to focus on a few key locations to avoid long car journeys and endless hours in airports. We knew there would be future opportunities (and plenty of desire) to return and explore what we missed this time around.

Our itinerary covered three main destinations: Bogota, Cartagena e Santa Marta – Tayrona Park. Aside from the drive between Cartagena and Tayrona, we flew between the other locations.



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Colombia 12-Day Itinerary Overview

  • Day 1 – Arrival in Bogota , lunch and explore the Parque de la 93 and surroundings
  • Day 2 – Historic center of Bogotá
  • Day 3 – Bike tour or Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral
  • Day 4 – Morning the Parque de la 93, afternoon flight to Cartagena
  • Day 5 – Cartagena
  • Day 6 – Cartagena
  • Day 7 – Day-tour to Islas del Rosario
  • Day 8 – Drive to Tay National Parkrona, relax at the hotel’s beach
  • Day 9 – Tayrona National Park
  • Day 10 – Tayrona National Park
  • Day 11 – Morning at the hotel, afternoon drive to Santa Marta and flight to Bogotá
  • Day 12 – Morning in Bogotá, afternoon flight to our next destination

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How to get to Colombia

We started our journey in São Paulo, Brazil, where Avianca offers direct daily flights to Bogotá. Avianca connects Colombia with several cities around the world, especially in the Americas and Europe.

Flying with Avianca was super easy — we had flown with them before on trips to Costa Rica and Curaçao and had no problems at all.

In addition to Bogotá, there are also direct flights departing from São Paulo to Medellin.

Adding to its accessibility and relatively low travel costs — much lower than in the United States or Western Europe — Colombia offers a perfect holiday destination with its diverse attractions, beautiful beaches, rich history and culture, delicious cuisine, and pleasant weather year-round.

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1st. stop: Bogota

Our Colombian journey started in the country's capital: Bogota.

Despite being close to the equator, Bogotá sits at an altitude of 2,600 meters, giving it a mild climate all year round. We visited in January — summer in the southern hemisphere, though Bogotá is in the northern hemisphere — and the weather was perfect. Sunny and pleasantly warm during the day, with a refreshing chill in the early morning and evening.

Check out this post for details of everything we did in 3 days in Bogotá.

Where to stay in Bogotá

Our goal for our time in Bogotá was to experience the city like locals, so we opted to stay away from the typical tourist areas. After some research, we chose the northern part of the city — Chapineiro, Chicó and Parque de la 93.

We stayed at Hotel Estelar Parque de la 93, and it was excellent. The hotel is close to several restaurants, bars, shops, and cafes, and the neighborhood was lovely. It was exactly what we wanted: a relaxing, peaceful place to enjoy the city.

If you prefer to stay in the central historical area, a popular choice among tourists is La Candelaria neighborhood, which has several options, usually with great cost-benefit, such as the Hotel Casa Deco, Arche Noah Boutique Hostel and the Hotel Casa de la Vega.

Check hotel availability and prices here:

 

What to do in Bogotá

We spent a total of 2 full days and 2 half days in Bogotá: arriving around lunchtime on our first day, staying for two more full days, and leaving for the airport around noon on the last day.

Here’s the detailed itinerary of our For a complete guide to Bogotá , including what to do, where to eat, what local dishes to try, nearby tours , and more, check out my detailed post. It’s definitely worth a read!

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2nd. stop: Cartagena de Indias

How to get to Cartagena de Indias

We took a quick 12-hour flight from Bogotá to Cartagena with VivaAir (which has since gone bankrupt), a local low-cost airline. Cartagena’s airport is conveniently close to the town, so we opted for a taxi upon arrival.

Where to stay in Cartagena de Indias

For our stay in Cartagena, we decided to switch things up and booked an Airbnb instead of a hotel (unlike our stays in Bogotá and Tayrona, where we opted for hotels). We wanted more space and the option to do laundry, which is essential when traveling with just a carry-on., washing clothes while traveling is a necessity).

We found a lovely apartment in the historic town (Ciudad Amurallada), just steps away from the city walls. The apartment was perfect for our family of four and offered easy access to the famous Café del Mar.

In the specific post about Cartagena , I’ve included great accommodation suggestions in the historic area. In addition to those, I had pre-selected and recommend, on a higher budget, Hotel Boutique Casona del Colegio and on budget-friendly options, Hotel 3 Flags and the El Barrio Hostal.

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How to get around Cartagena de Indias

If you’re staying in the Old Town (Ciudad Amurallada), you can easily explore everything on foot. The historical part of town is small and pleasant, and Getsemani — the other historic neighborhood of Cartagena — is also very close. It’s a great place to walk around, grab a coffee or ice cream, and, of course, take lots of pictures. We walked everywhere, covering a lot of ground under the merciless sun with temperatures constantly above 30ºC.

What to do in Cartagena de Indias

It’s important to note that Cartagena doesn’t have beaches within the town itself, despite its location on the Caribbean coast. The sea can be rough, and there are only a few places with small stretches of sand. During our drives to and from the airport, we noticed that these small beach areas were typically crowded with chairs, umbrellas, and people. The water didn’t look particularly appealing — quite a contrast to the idyllic image we often have of the Caribbean. If you're looking for that dream Caribbean experience, you need to visit the more distant beaches and islands, as I describe in detail in the specific post about Cartagena.

We spent three and a half days in Cartagena: arriving late in the afternoon on our first day, spending three full days (including one day dedicated to visiting Islas del Rosario (Rosario Islands) and on the last day after breakfast we took the rental car to go to Tayrona National Park

In this post, I share all the details of everything we did in Cartagena, what we loved, and what didn’t quite meet our expectations. Be sure to check it out!

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3rd stop: Tayrona National Park

How to get to Tayrona National Park

On our day in Cartagena, we rented a car from an Alamo branch near the airport and drove to Tayrona National Park, which is about 250 km east — more than a 4-hour drive, not counting the lunch stop.

We stopped for lunch at Isla Rosario (not to be confused with Islas del Rosario near Cartagena; this one is between Barranquilla and Santa Marta) at the rustic but delicious and beautifully located Popeye El Marino Restaurant . However, be aware that this restaurant is in a very poor area, which seemed to us the most precarious of all the places we passed between Cartagena and Tayrona.

Where to stay near Tayrona National Park

The main town close to Tayrona National Park is Santa Marta, where there are several accommodation options for all styles and budgets. However, it’s worth noting that it takes about an hour to drive from the center of Santa Marta to the park entrance, covering a distance of approximately 40 km. Although the journey is easy, we wanted to enjoy the beach, the hotel, and the park, so I looked for options closer to the park entrance to maximize our time on the beach and explore the surrounding area.

We stayed at Senda Maloka Barlovento, one of the accommodation within Finca Barlovento. I cannot emphasize enough how fantastic the location of this guesthouse is. Situated at the mouth of the Piedras River, which marks the boundary of Tayrona National Park, the inn is practically on the beach. Another option in the complex, Senda Cabaña Barlovento, is literally built above the rocks where the waves break.

The inn itself is simple but comfortable and cozy. The balcony overlooking the river and the sea is sensational, and the on-site restaurant serves delicious food with attentive staff. The pool, nestled in the woods, is delightful, and there's a spa (which we didn't use). Overall, this was the best accommodation experience of the trip and one of the best we’ve had in recent times..

Despite my recommendation for Senda Maloka (and dreaming of going back there), you can check out other options for accommodation at Playa Los Naranjos.

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What to do in Tayrona National Park

If you love nature and adventure, Tayrona is a must-visit. The park spans from the Sierra Nevada mountains to the Caribbean coast, offering a diverse landscape of beaches, forests, deserts, and mountains. We focused on the coastal areas but there’s much more to explore.

One highlight or our days in Tayrona National Park was having the chance to do was hiking from Cañaveral to One highlight was hiking from Cañaveral to Cabo San Juan del Guia. This trail winds through lush forests, rocky cliffs, and stunning beaches. Although the hike was long and had some challenging sections, it was well worth it. Our kids, ages 9 and 10, managed it with a few complaints but made it through.

The views were breathtaking, and Cabo San Juan del Guía rewarded us with a beautiful beach and crystal-clear waters. We spent time relaxing, swimming, and enjoying the park’s natural beauty. A tip: bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and wear good hiking shoes—my flip-flops didn’t survive the trek!

We spent three days in Tayrona Park and I’ve detailed our experience and tips for visiting the park in full post .

How to get from Tayrona National Park to Bogotá

On the last day, we left the hotel early and headed towards Santa Marta, we had lunch and headed to the airport. We returned the rental car at the Santa Marta airport — there was an extra fee for returning the car at a different location, but we did the math, and it was the only way not to lose a day of travel, in addition to not spending on a night’s accommodation, fuel, and food.

We flew to Bogotá with VivaAir, a local low-cost airline (now bankrupt). The flight left at 16:30 pm and landed in Bogotá at 18 pm.

The next day, we took an Avianca flight to Orlando, USA — a three and a half hour direct flight, easy and fast.

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