Mostar – what to do in the most charming city in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Mostar was undoubtedly the place that enchanted us the most on our roadtrip through the Balkans!

A town full of history and culture, with a charming old town in a breathtaking location, friendly and hospitable people, excellent food, budget-friendly costs, and plenty of interesting and different things to do in the surroundings.

If you've never considered visiting Bosnia-Herzegovina or were only thinking of a day trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik, read on and get ready to change your plans and day trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik, read until the end and get ready to change your concepts and include a good stop in Mostar on your next visit to Eastern Europe.

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How to get to Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the countries that emerged from the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia. It is located in Eastern Europe, and Mostar is situated in the southern part of the country, in a region surrounded by mountain ranges (covered in snow during winter) and crossed by the Neretva River.

Very close to Croatia, Mostar is 150 km from Dubrovnik and 166 km from Split, making it easy to include in an itinerary through Croatia , which is what most people end up doing. If you want to explore more of Bosnia, Mostar is just 125 km from Sarajevo.

We drove from Dubrovnik to Mostar, following the coast until crossing the border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina at Zaton Doli, then continuing on Bosnian roads to Mostar.

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What it's like to drive in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Our 3 week Balkans itinerary included driving across Bosnia from east to west, covering more than 750km in the country, without any issues. The roads are single-lane with proper signage in both Latin and Cyrillic alphabets, you drive on the right and we encountered no tolls.

Keep in mind that Bosnia is a mountainous country, and much of our route involved winding roads with numerous curves. Take your time and enjoy the beautiful scenery along the way.

There was no border control upon entering Bosnia - they only checked our documents when leaving Croatia (at Zaton Doli), and we didn't pass through any border post entering Bosnia. We exited Bosnia through the eastern border with Serbia (at Sepak), where passport control was conducted both leaving Bosnia and entering Serbia.

Calculate here the cost of renting a car in Bosnia:

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Where to stay in Mostar

Despite being one of the most important cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostar is small and very easy to navigate.

It's ideal to stay near the historic center. We stayed at Hotel Sinan Han and I highly recommend it. It is just two blocks from Stari Most, the town's iconic bridge, surrounded by numerous restaurants, shops, and markets. The room was comfortable and clean, and the hotel staff was exceptional. We had booked a family room (deluxe suite) for 4 people, but the sofa bed was too small for my two pre-teens. I asked the reception if it was possible to add an extra bed to the room, but they offered us a complimentary double room! It was perfect. So, if you're traveling with 4 people, I recommend getting 2 double rooms.

Apart from this, there are several other options in the area. I had pre-selected Villa Gunga and Kriva Ćuprija. For a more sophisticated experience yet at reasonable prices, the Boutique Hotel Old Town Mostar looks perfect.

Check availability and rates herei:

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Currency and language of Bosnia Herzegovina

In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the official currency is the Bosnian Convertible Mark, usually simply called marks (BAM).

When we were there, €1 = BAM2 (Jan/2024). In fact, the official exchange rate was a little less, something like €1 = 1,94 BAM, but most places worked with 1 x 2.

Even though we stayed in Bosnia for almost a week, we only exchanged money once, for €100, to have some local currency for small expenses such as entry to tourist attractions, small purchases and such – there were 7 of us, so we exchanged the equivalent €2/day/person.

Euros are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, and tourist attractions. During our stay in Bosnia, we used Euros and credit cards for most expenses, without major issues. When paying in Euros, we often received change in Euros, and in just a few instances, we paid in Euros and received change in BAM.

The official language of Bosnia and Herzegovina is Bosnian, a Slavic language similar to others in the region. English is widely spoken, and, as a rule, the people we encountered spoke English very well. We had no communication problems at any time.

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What to do in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Walking through the old town of Mostar will make you doubt that you are really in Europe. Minarets from the various mosques are always in view, and there's the periodic call to prayer. The Ottoman influence is so strong that at times, I felt like I was in Turkey.

It's easy to explore the town center in a day, we did it gradually, alternating between the city's attractions and those in the surrounding areas.

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1 – Stari Most (Old Bridge)

The town's postcard and one of the main (if not the main) tourist attractions in Bosnia Herzegovina, Stari Most, or the old bridge, is worth a visit in Mostar. The history of the bridge over the Neretva River and of the town are so intimately connected that Mostar means "bridge keeper."

In addition to its architectural beauty, the bridge's history is fascinating. It was built between 1557 and 1566 at the behest of Suleiman the Magnificent, when the entire region of present-day Bosnia was part of the then all-powerful ottoman empire, and represented one of the greatest engineering feats of the time.

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Stari Most bravely survived the fascist Italian occupation during World War II, only to be cowardly destroyed in November 1993 by the Croats during the wars that followed the dismantling of the former Yugoslavia.

There are numerous photos of the bridge bombed by the town and in museums; it's heartbreaking and makes one question humanity.

The war left a profound mark on the city. After the death of Tito (who, in the end, was the one keeping Yugoslavia united), in 1992, Bosnians and Croats joined forces against the Serbs and Montenegrins. However, in May 1993, the then allies came into conflict, and the town divided, with Bosnians on one side and Croats on the other. To this day there is a clear division in the city, with Islamists on one side and Christians on the other. The war ended in 1995, with the city completely destroyed. Only 1 of its then 27 mosques remained standing.

The bridge was rebuilt in 2004, using sixteenth century techniques and stones from the original quarry.. On July 17, 2005, Stari Most was declared UNESCO heritage site, and is seen as a symbol of the persistence of the inhabitants and a promising future for all of Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Near the bridge, there are several delightful cafes and restaurants. Before taking a seat, it's advisable to check Google and TripAdvisor for reviews (as these can change), but in this area we had the best gastronomic experiences throughout our Balkan trip. Check the post until the end, where I share our restaurant recommendations.

Next to the bridge is the Old Bridge Museum, which we couldn't visit due to restricted winter operating hours. The museum narrates the bridge's history and allows visitors to climb its tower, promising an excellent vantage point for photos.

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2 – Crooked Bridge

As if it were a miniature of the Stari Most, the Crooked Bridge, built around 1558, crosses the river Radobolja, a small tributary of the Neretva, a few meters from the Stari Most. It is beautiful, and the cafes and restaurants alongside it, with lights shining at dusk, make it even more magical.

Like its more famous bigger sister, the original version of this bridge was severely damaged in the war of the 90s, and what remained was swept away by a flood on New Year's Eve in 1999. What we see today is a reconstruction completed in 2002.

Nearby there is the Haman Museum, housed in an old Turkish bathhouse from the end of the 16th century. We were told it was worth a quick visit, however – again because it was winter – it was closed.

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3 – Kujundžiluk Street Bazaar

Crossing Stari Most, you will follow a narrow street, surrounded by little shops on both sides and, in some sections, with views to the left of the Neretva River.

It could be the typical souvenir shopping street found in any historic city in Europe, but the difference here is that it's not just any European street. The houses, mostly reconstructed, evoke the ottoman medieval period, with their stone roofs and characteristic architecture.

We visited Mostar in winter, and many of the shops were closed. However, among those open, I was left with a good impression. They seemed to offer local products, representative of the history and traditions of the people in the region, and at reasonable prices. Perhaps my impression might be slightly influenced by our last stop before Mostar, which was Dubrovnik. In that regard, Dubrovnik was utterly disappointing, with shallow souvenir shops selling China-made products at exorbitant prices.

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4 – Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque

An architectural gem dating back to the 17th century. Step inside, breathe in the peaceful atmosphere and appreciate the beauty of the details.

It is possible to climb the minaret; they say the views of the bridge and the surroundings are incredible, but we didn't do it. We only explored the courtyard, fountain, and the small garden, which has free entry.

In addition to these points, it's interesting to visit the Biscevica Cosak, a house built 350 years ago during the Ottoman era that preserves the decoration of that time. In winter, visits are possible only with prior arrangements, something unfortunately, we didn't know.

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5 – New town

Mostar is not limited to the old Ottoman-era town.

It's sad to point out, but Bosnia and Herzegovina were the stage for one of the cruelest wars of the XNUMXth century, and Mostar, as one of the country's main cities, was severely affected.

As I mentioned on Instagram, war tourism is not something that particularly attracts me, but I think it's essential to know the history and the impact that conflicts have on the lives of ordinary women and men, like you and me. This makes us more human, more sensitive to the pain of others, and – who knows – allows us to have a clearer vision and act to prevent it from happening again

During the Balkan War of the 90s, Mostar had a "frontline" that separated Bosnians (Muslims) on one side and Croats (Christians) on the other . Bulevar Avenue was the separation line, and in the building of the then Lkjuljanska Bank, snipers were on standby -yes, a real-life snipers nest. Today, the triangular building is in ruins, with no signs of its bloody past. There is only a memorial to the Spanish, who were part of the peacekeeping force and lost their lives in the conflict, at the place now called Spain Square..

Around the roundabout and nearby, there are still some buildings in ruins, and others intentionally maintain the marks of war. For us, living in a peaceful country, it is a shocking sight.

Remember, we made this trip with children - aged 10 to 12, and whenever there was context, we explained to them about the war, ethnic and religious conflicts in the region, the communist period, in short, heavy subjects that can - and should - be presented to children of all ages.

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6 – Mostar Museum

For those who enjoy history, Mostar's museum offers an insight into the town, from Ottoman times to more recent events.

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7 – Get lost in the medieval-Ottoman alleys

The old town of Mostar is not so large as to require a lot of time to explore, but it's worth taking your time to enjoy it..

Many tourists come to Mostar on a day-trip from Dubrovnik, or even Split. If this is your only option to visit the town, please do it. Don't miss Mostar due to lack of time. Bosnia is an amazing country, we were very impressed and Mostar is well prepared to receive tourists.

It was the place on our trip through the Balkans where we felt most welcomed (ok, Sarajevo deserves a mention here too) and where we had the best experiences.

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What to do around Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Within a short distance of Mostar there are several other cool spots to visit: historical ruins, waterfalls, monasteries and viewpoints.

We had a rented car, and our plan for the first day was the following itinerary:

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1st day: Dubrovnik – Trebinje – Ljubinje – Stolac – Mostar

However, we decided to take the scenic road along the Adriatic Sea coast to Neum (the only Bosnian town on the coast) and then head to Stolac, where we stopped for lunch at Restauran Han (an excellent choice, with great service, tasty food and affordable prices - note that they do not serve alcoholic beverages).

Trebinje is a small town that, much like Mostar, dates back to the Ottoman period with a well-preserved historic center. I had a strong desire to visit, but as we chose a different route, we didn't get a chance to explore it.

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2nd day: Mostar – Kravica Waterfall – Blagaj Monastery – Mostar

Kravica Waterfall

Located about a 40 minute drive from Mostar, Kravica Waterfall is a series of waterfalls that must be delightful in the summer. We visited in winter, bundled up with hats, gloves, and scarves, which probably explained why there was no one around.

There is an admission fee, but we were not charged - there was no one at the entrance when we got there. The access is super easy; we followed Google Maps directions, parked just a few meters from the waterfall, and the path is a stone trail with sections of wooden walkways, quite straightforward. But, as I mentioned, Bosnia has a great tourist structure, there are options for tours half-day or full day which include a visit to Kravica; if you don't have a car, it's worth taking a tour.

In the summer, I imagine the place gets a lot of people. There are some bars and restaurants by the pool formed by the waterfall, inviting you for a swim. Even if there is a crowd, it seems like a great option to cool off from the scorching heat that usually prevails in the region during that time of the year.

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Blagaj Monastery – Blagaj Tekke

“It’s no wonder they chose this place to build the monastery” was the first thought that came to mind when we arrived at Blagaj Monastery

The Buna River simply springs from a rock wall with an enormous amount of water, which then forms a semicircular waterfall amidst imposing cliffs. If words and poetry fail me to describe the place, there was no shortage of emotion in experiencing it.

The monastery dates back to the 15th century, having been founded by Sufi dervish and scholar Osman Derviša with the message “love creatures for the sake of Creator”. The current structure, however, was built in the 17th century. The combination of Ottoman and medieval architectural elements gives the monastery a unique and charming appearance.

If I'm not mistaken, the entrance fee is €4 per adult, with children exempt from payment, allowing you to explore the monastery's premises, including prayer rooms and contemplation areas.

But the best views are on the other side of the Buna River, where there are some restaurants – we stopped at Restaurant Vrelo for coffee and baklava (a typical local sweet), it was quite delicious, and the price not as high as the location might lead you to believe (bur remember that we were there in winter and the place was almost empty).

In case you prefer to spend more time savoring this amazing view, there are plenty of places to stay in Blagaj..

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Where to eat in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina

In Mostar, we had some great gastronomic experiences. The local cuisine is a blend of Ottoman and European influences.

Among the regional dishes, we tried cevapi (a kind of kebab, which can be served in the form of skewers, burgers, or meatballs), burek (a pastry with various fillings), and pljeskavica (another kebab variant).

The desserts were my favorite in the local cuisine, especially baklava and smokvara.

Here is the list of places we ate and liked in the Mostar region:

Restaurant Šadrvan – overlooking the Radobolija River, I tried the japrak (a type of Arabic cigar) and it was delicious.

Hindi Khan – recommended by our hotel, the food was great and the service was perfect.

Restaurant Vrelo – with excellent views of the Blagaj Monastery, we had coffee and ate baklava and smokvara. I imagine that in high season it may get crowded.

Restauran Han – in Stolac, a great choice if you are passing through the area.

But beware: it's worth checking the reviews on Google and Trip Advisor before sitting down to avoid surprises.

Mostar is an incredible mix of history, culture, and natural beauty. I hope these practical tips help you plan your trip and that you enjoy every moment in this special destination. Safe travels!

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Complete itinerary of our Balkans trip

Here is the map from Google MyMaps, with our detailed itinerary through the Balkans – Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, just click and save it to your Google account. When you plan your next trip to Eastern Europe, you already know where to start 😉

In this post, I explain how I use Google MyMaps to plan a trip. It’s an amazing tool for saving locations, calculating routes and distances, and organizing your entire journey. I highly recommend giving it a try!

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