Nakasendo Road, from Magome to Tsumago, the most beautiful villages of medieval Japan

How about embarking on a journey along the legendary 'Samurai Route,' following paths that, for centuries, were tread by samurai, feudal lords, and traders?

The Nakasendo Road is one of Japan's most famous trails, winding through the Kiso Valley in the Japanese Alps.

Imagine villages seemingly frozen in time, with dark wooden houses and paper lanterns, connected by a path that meanders through forests, mountains, streams, waterfalls, and rice fields. Walking in the footsteps of ancient travelers along Nakasendo Road, it’s impossible not to feel as though you’ve stepped into a samurai film set.

In this post, I’ll share what makes the Nakasendo Route so special and how to experience it yourself — I'll tell you right now: the hiking trail is easy, well-signposted, and doesn’t require great physical fitness.

It was one of the most special experiences we had during our month long trip to Japan and I guarantee it will be one of yours too!

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What is the Nakasendo Road?

Nakasendo Route (or Nakasendo Road, in English) means “central mountain road”. It was one of the five main routes connecting Edo (present-day Tokyo) to Kyoto, at the time the Japanese capital, during the Edo Period (1603-1868).

This approximately 500-kilometer route was used by samurai, traders, and messengers. Along the way, there were several “post towns,” small villages where travelers could rest and spend the night. It is estimated that there were around 200 post towns along the five routes in the Edo period. On Nakasendo Road, there were 69 post towns, making it the route with the largest number of them.

Magome (also called Magome-juku) and Tsumago (or Tsumago-juku) are two of the best-preserved post towns, and the path between them is one of the few remaining sections of the original Nakasendo Road.

This is precisely the section we walked during our 4-week trip to Japan..

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Tip for your trip to Japan

You might be wondering how I discovered this journey, completely off the usual tourist path in Japan.

The folks at the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), the official tourism agency of the Japanese government, gave me this tip. They are available every weekend at Japan House Sao Paulo, Brazil, to help you plan your trip to Japan—I can confidently say that without their tips and guidance, our trip to Japan wouldn’t have been the success it was. Best of all, their service is free. Check to see if there’s a branch of this service near where you live.

It was there that I first heard about the Nakasendo Road and gathered some initial information. The rest, as always, was a mix of what I found in the blogosphere and the little information provided by Lonely Planet. We embarked on this adventure, adding the satisfaction of completing such an unconventional journey in Japan to our itinerary!

If you’re looking to discover another journey off the standard tourist route in Japan, check out the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, our journey crossing the Japanese Alps.

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How to get to Magome or Tsumago

We started the hike on the Nakasendo Road in Magome; if you’re beginning in Tsumago, you can simply follow these instructions in reverse 😉

The most common way to get to Magome is to take a train to Nagoya Station (we went from Tokyo to Nagoya with the Shinkansen, the Japanese bullet train, with the right to see the Mount Fuji on the way: sit on the right side of the car for a view of Japan’s most iconic mountain.

From Nagoya, we took a regional train to Nakatsugawa (JR Chuo Line Rapid Train). It’s also possible to reach Nakatsugawa from other towns in the region, such as Matsumoto or Nagano.

In Nakatsugawa, just catch a local bus to Magome. The bus stop is right in front of the station, so you can’t miss it. Google Maps has everything mapped out and will show you the exact bus departure place and times. We relied on the information provided by the app, and it worked perfectly.

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Where to stay in Magome

Both Magome and Tsumago offer some, though not many, accommodation options. It’s also possible to stay in nearby towns like Nakatsugawa, Nagiso, or even Matsumoto and do the Nakasendo Route as a day trip.

However, the more I researched the Nakasendo Route, the more convinced I became that to fully experience it, spending at least one night in one of the post towns was essential.

We chose to stay overnight in Magome , and as expected, I decided we would stay in a ryokan.

Ryokans are traditional Japanese inns, the quintessential Japanese house that inhabits our imagination: rooms with tatami floors, rice paper windows, futon mattresses, sliding doors, kaiseki meals, and, to top it off, thermal baths (onsen). Not to mention the kimonos (yukatas) and straw slippers.

Our ryokan, Magome Chaya , had all of this, except the onsen. It was the most fascinating accommodation experience we had in Japan . It wasn’t luxurious at all (and I admit the pillow left something to be desired), and the bathroom was shared, but the whole context made the moment unforgettable.

Since everything in the village closes at night, we chose to have dinner and breakfast at the ryokan. Both meals were in the best traditional Japanese style, a delicious sequence of several small dishes (kaiseki), without a doubt one of the best meals we had during four-week adventure in Japan.

Other highly recommended options in Magome are the Nedoko Guesthouse and the Tajimaya Ryokan, both also ryokans.

Check availability and fare prices here:

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Luggage fowarding service on the Nakasendo Route

Before you ask: you don’t need to carry your bags on the trail (unless you want to, of course).

Between Magome and Tsumago, there is a luggage forwarding service.

You leave your bags and backpacks at the Magome tourist information center and pick them up at the equivalent in Tsumago, or vice versa..

In Magome, the luggage drop-off point is practically next to the Magome Chaya ryokan and in front of the Toson Memorial Museum; in Tsumago, it’s in the center of the village, next to the post office.

It costs ¥1000 per item; just leave your bags at one of the information centers between 8:30 am and 11:30 am and pick them up at the other between 13 pm and 17 pm.

Check the official Magome or Tsumago website for the service’s operating season, which usually runs from April to November, as well as the specific delivery and collection times when you plan to use it.

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When to do the Magome-Tsumago trail

The best time of year to do the Nakasendo Route between Magome and Tsumago is from April to November, when there is little to no snow. We did it in July and it was perfect.

(But if I could, I would do it in autumn—the colors must be stunning!)

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What it's like to do the Nakasendo Road between Magome and Tsumago

The trail between Magome and Tsumago is about 8 kilometers long and takes around 2 to 3 hours to complete.

We took our time, with stops for rest, enjoying the views, and having snacks, so it took us just over three hours to finish.

There’s no fee to hike the trail; it’s free, open to all, and accessible to everyone.

The path is very well marked, so it would be hard to get lost along the way.

Magome sits at around 600 meters above sea level, while Tsumago is at 420 meters. The highest point on the trail, Magome Pass, reaches 801 meters above sea level. Starting from Magome, you’ll gain 200 meters in elevation, and from Tsumago, it’s 380 meters. This is why most people choose to hike from Magome to Tsumago.

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Magome-juku

At the entrance to Magome-juku, there’s a water mill — a symbol of the town — and a sharp curve to the right. Building towns with these curves at the entrance was a strategic move back in the day to slow down enemy troops, giving residents more time to defend.

Another interesting feature of the village is that Magome is one of the few post towns built on a hill. The various water mills were essential, not only for providing energy but also for fire prevention — the town was burned down twice, in 1895 and 1915.

Near the Magome-Chaya ryokan is the Toson Memorial Museum, dedicated to the famous Japanese writer Shimazaki Toson, who was born and spent much of his childhood in the town.

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The trail

Leaving Magome, the trail continues through forests and rural areas, with a good uphill stretch — mostly a gentle incline, but with some steeper sections, including sets of steps.

The uphill section is 2.4 km long, with an altitude gain of around 200 meters. The highest point is Magome Pass. From there, it’s all downhill to Tsumago.

About 850 meters after reaching the highest point of the route, you’ll come to Ichikokutochi Tatebachaya, a tea house with over 300 years of history — likely the most authentic one you’ll find on your trip to Japan. It’s a perfect spot for a well-deserved break, where you can enjoy complimentary tea. Unlike most places in Japan, tips are welcome here!

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From there, you’ll enter what I believe is the most beautiful section of the route. Following a small stream through a forest of cypresses, cedars, bamboo, and maple trees, it’s about 1.8 km to the two waterfalls along the journey: Odaki and Medaki.

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After the waterfalls, it's another 3,8 km to Tsumago.

When we went, part of this final stage was blocked by a landslide that had occurred a few days earlier. We followed a paved road for about 2 km to the Omata Bridge, where we returned to the historic path for the last meters of the Nakasendo Route, just as we were practically in Tsumago.

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Tsumago

Upon arriving in Tsumago, I was struck by how this village could be so different from Magome, yet so similar! (Am I crazy? Yes, certainly!)

In Tsumago, it is worth visiting the Nagisomachi Museum, which consists of three parts: Waki Honjin Okuya (dating from 1877), Tsumago-juku Honjin and the historical archive.

The Tsumago-juku Honjin is a life-size replica of the accommodations intended for daimyos, the feudal lords who governed a region when they traveled the Nakasendo Road.

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We had lunch at Omote restaurant, right next to the Tsumago tourist information center , where we retrieved our bags. After enjoying the village a bit more, we headed down to the bus stop towards Nagiso.

Oh, and don’t forget to try goheimochi, the regional treat — a kind of grilled rice skewer with sweet sauce. It’s delicious!

In Nagiso, we took the train to Matsumoto; in the post with our 4 week itinerary in Japan you can see the rest of the trip.

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Tips for the walk

- Wear comfortable clothing and suitable footwear – sports shoes are sufficient; no need for specialized trekking gear.

- Bring water and some snacks. . While there are a few spots along the way where you can buy water, ice cream, and snacks, don’t miss the essential stop at Ichikokutochi Tatebachaya for a cup of tea.

Follow the marked path and respect the environment: Leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time, take nothing but pictures (and, of course, your trash!)

If you’re not staying in Tsumago (or in Magome, if you’re doing the trail in the opposite direction), be sure to check return bus times . In addition to Google Maps, it’s worth stopping by the tourist information center to confirm departure schedules.

In summary, the days we spent in Magome and Tsumago, along with the hike on the Nakasendo Road, were highlights of our trip. It was here that we truly felt immersed in traditional Japan and its natural beauty. The serenity of the landscape and the charm of the villages made this journey a unique experience.

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If you want to learn more about the two cities, check out the official tourism association link for Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku.

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