What to do in Alter do Chão: Exploring amazonian beaches and rainforests in Brazil

Unsure whether to choose a jungle or beach destination? In Alter do Chão, you get the best of both worlds in one place. We spent five days in Alter, and I'm here to share everything there is to do in this paradise of beaches and forests!

Located on the banks of the Tapajós River, Alter do Chão is one of those places that captivates you from the moment you first glimpse the “Ilha do Amor” from the town’s main square. You’ll find yourself wondering the quickest way to get to that island, just to soak in all the love that gives it its name.

(Note: This "island" is technically a peninsula, but that’s beside the point.)

Whether you prefer relaxing on beaches with fine, golden sand, swimming in fresh water at the perfect temperature, enjoying shade and sipping coconut water (or a cold beer if you like), or if you’re someone who loves jungle adventures, trails, boat trips, and expeditions to spot Amazonian birds and mammals, Alter has it all. Plus, it’s set in a lively village with great restaurants, bars, regional crafts, and an irresistible vibe.

Alter do Chão, a land steeped in the legends of the Muiraquitã and Boiuna, with its vibrant birds, playful dolphins, warm-hearted locals, and mouthwatering cuisine, was one of three stops on our journey through iconic Brazilian destinations: Alter do Chão, Anavilhanas National Park (Novo Airão, Amazon) and Chapada dos Veadeiros, Goiás.

All our posts about traveling in Brazil, be sure to check them out before planing a trip to my home country:

Tapajós River, Ilha do Amor, Alter do Chão, Pará, Brazil, river beach, kiosks - what to do in Alter do Chão

In this post, you will find:

When to go to Alter do Chão

In the Alter region, as in much of the Amazon, your experience will vary greatly depending on the time of year.

During the low river season, from August to January , you’ll find miles and miles of beaches with fine, sparkling sand, inviting you to take a dip at every turn.

In the flood season, from February to July, what stands out are the flooded forests and the wildlife, which (so they say) are more active and easier to spot.

We visited in mid-January and explored many beaches , so many, in fact, that we found stalls set up in areas that were already beginning to flood. I can imagine that during the dry season, the water would recede even further, revealing more hidden beaches we never knew existed, each more beautiful than the last.

If you plan on visiting Alter in December or January, which is typically the summer school holiday season in Brazil, you’re in for a treat. There will still be plenty of beaches to explore, along with flooded forests to navigate.

Tapajós River, Praia do Cajeiro, Alter do Chão - what to do in Alter do Chão

How to get to Alter do Chão

Alter do Chão is a small village, near the city of Santarém, where there is an airport. Santarem is approximately 1.400 km west of Belém and 1.770km north of Cuiabá.

Despite being far from the country's largest urban centers, Santarém has direct flights to Manaus, Belém, Brasília and other cities in the region (at the time this post was written, but this can always change). We headed to Alter after spending a few days at Anavilhanas National Park, in the Amazon. We took an AZUL flight from Manaus, which took about 1 hour and 20 minutes to Santarém. On our return, we flew directly from Santarém to Brasília, a flight that lasted around 2 hours and 30 minutes.

From Santarém airport to Alter do Chão, it’s about a 40-minute drive . We took a taxi that we pre-booked with a driver recommended by the inn where we stayed, but you can easily catch one at the airport when your flight arrives. I don’t recommend renting a car, as all tours in Alter are done by boat. While you can drive to some beaches, there aren’t many accessible by car, and we didn’t miss having one during our trip.

Amazon rainforest, view from the Tapajós River, Alter do Chão, Pará, Brazil

Where to stay in Alter do Chão

Alter do Chao offers accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets.

We stayed at Villa Arumã Pousada, a small guesthouse with chalets set in a lush, wooded area. It felt like staying in the middle of the jungle — we even saw monkeys and sloths on the property.

We were two families traveling together, so we booked two chalets, which formed a two-story house. One family stayed in the ground-floor room, while the other stayed in the upstairs room, which had a bathtub on the balcony surrounded by towering trees—absolutely delightful. In the late afternoon or evening, we enjoyed the small pool suspended between the trees, which was quite a treat. Although it wasn’t very close to the village center, it was still an easy walk.

Other options I researched at the time, which looked nice and have good reviews are:

- Casa da Arvore de Alter – A real treehouse, integrated with the surrounding nature. We wanted to stay here, but it was already booked.

- Beloalter Hotel – Seems to be a bit further from the town center but offers good amenities and a private beach.

- Sunset Beach House – A rental house very close to downtown and Ilha do Amor, with good ratings.

- TerrAmor Amazon – good choice if you want to stay close to downtown

What to do in Alter do Chão

Tours in the Alter do Chão region are primarily conducted by boat. While some destinations can be reached by land, unless you have your own vehicle or a specific need for one, renting a car isn’t very practical. It’s far better to explore by boat.

We took all our tours with Marcelão (cell phone 93 9181-0535), a friendly boatman who knows the region like the back of his hand. He shared a wealth of knowledge about the Amazon’s wildlife, plants, rivers, and how local communities interact with their environment.

All the tours we did were full-day excursions, each ending with an even more breathtaking sunset than the last.

Here’s what you can’t miss in Alter do Chão:

photos of the trail through the Tapajos Forest - Jamaraqua nucleusphotos of the trail through the Tapajos Forest - Jamaraqua nucleus

Floresta Nacional de Tapajós (Tapajós National Forest)

This protected area is home to indigenous communities that offer guided tours through the forest. We visited the villages of Maguari and Jamaraquá.

Our guide, Chito, frequently stopped to point out different plants, explain their medicinal properties, and demonstrate how certain palm leaves are used to make a variety of tools. We walked through a rubber plantation, explored a flooded forest, visited a lake filled with giant water lilies, and met with local communities.

There’s a simple restaurant on-site where the fresh fish is excellent. After a forest hike, you can relax in one of the hammocks for a well-deserved rest.

On the way back, we stopped at a few beaches and enjoyed an unforgettable sunset at Ponta do Cajutuba.

meeting of the waters of Tapajós (bluer area, at the bottom of the photo) and Amazonas (more brownish area, right in the center of the photo)

Meeting of waters – Tapajós River and Amazon River

Next, our guide took us to a branch of the Amazon River, where the striking difference in water color is evident—the Amazon is a muddy, light brown, while the Tapajós remains clear.

The first stop was at a riverside house (I didn’t catch the name). The family welcomed us and led us on a walk through the forest. With our guide’s help, we spotted an array of wildlife—mostly birds, but also sloths, monkeys, and iguanas. We also tasted regional nuts and sweets made from local ingredients.

But there was still a lot to explore!

;

Typical houses on the Arapiuns river - Amazonas - what to do in Alter do Chão

Jardim de Vitórias-Régia da Dulce (Dulce's water lily garden)

We then visited Jardim de vitórias-régias da Dulce . Dulce, a local resident, cultivates Amazon water lilies in the lake by her home. Not only are they beautiful, but she also uses them as the main ingredient in the snacks she serves. Dulce, who is passionate about cooking, explained how she began experimenting with the plant and eventually found that different parts could be used to make a variety of dishes, such as tempura, cookies, popcorn, chips, and brownies. The setting is simple, with a “tasting menu” served on her house’s balcony—a unique and memorable experience.

Water lily pads, Amazon, Pará, Brazil - Dulce water lily garden

From there, we returned to the Tapajós River for lunch at Casa do Saulo, a popular restaurant with stunning river views and well-prepared dishes. It’s pricier than most places in the area, but the quality justifies the cost.

We estoped for a swim at the beach at Ponta de Pedras and ended the day with a spetacular sunset at Ponta do Cururu.

sunset at Ponta do Cururu, Tapajós River

children diving in the river at sunset in Ponta do Cururu

Lagoa Verde (Green Lagoon)

Lagoa Verde lagoon is located very close to the village of Alter do Chao. During the river’s dry season, a sand peninsula forms between the lagoon and the Tapajós River, separating the "lagoon" from the river's main course. The peninsula is lined with kiosks, and the beach there is quite lovely.

We entered the green lagoon by boat. The vegetation merges with the water, creating a vast wetland forest. It’s a beautiful experience, almost surreal at times — you find yourself passing through the treetops by boat as if it’s the most ordinary thing in the world. I imagine the tour is more restricted during the peak of the dry season, but we visited in January(at the end of the dry season, when the water level had already started to rise) and it was truly stunning.

The water is calm and pleasant, inviting you to hop off the boat for a swim. There are a few trails in the area, but we didn’t explore them much. Instead, we took the time to enjoy the lagoon and a charming little beach we discovered.

Lagoa Verde, Alter do Chão, Pará, Brazil, Tapajós River

Beaches of the Tapajós River

Alter do Chão boasts numerous beaches along the Tapajós River. There are thousands of kilometers of beaches — no exaggeration. Even though we visited at the end of the dry season (when the water level had already started to rise), when many beaches were already flooded or had much narrower strips of sand, it still felt like the beaches went on forever.

Some of these beaches have bars, beach clubs, vendors, and all the usual amenities you’d find at popular Brazilian beaches. If, like me, you’re used to going to the seaside, you’ll find that (1) the vibe is very similar, and (2) it’s also completely different, because swimming in fresh, clean water is far better than swimming in the sea — especially nowadays, when the sea often feels increasingly dirty and oily.

I enjoyed the river beaches so much that if I could, I’d only visit river beaches from now on . I absolutely loved it. I hope you go and enjoy even just 10% of what I did, which would be enough to fall in love with the place.

I don’t remember all the names of the beaches we visited (and we didn’t have time to stop at all of them, since we were only there for five days), but the ones we loved were Pindobal, Ponta de Pedras, Cajatuba, Santa Cruz, Cajueiro and likely many others that I’ve simply forgotten.

Sunset on the beach on the Tapajós River, Alter do Chão, Pará

Enjoy the sunset on the beach

On any tour you take in Alter do Chão, make sure to enjoy the sunset. No matter how tired you are, trust me, it’s worth it. The sun sets over the opposite bank of the Tapajós River, which is about 14 km wide in this region. In other words, the river stretches all the way to the horizon, and each sunset seems more beautiful than the last.

As if that weren’t enough, on one of the days at Ponta do Muretá, while we were relaxing in the late afternoon, a group of porpoises (white-water dolphins) appeared and swam near the riverbank until dusk.

Alter do Chão, Pará. Fisherman's boat in front of the beach with vegetation in the background

Ilha do Amor

Despite its name, which translate to "Love Island", Ilha do Amor is actually a sand peninsula that forms right in front of the town center during the dry season, and I am sure you'll fall in love with it. There are several kiosks and bars, making it a perfect spot to swim in the river and enjoy a few drinks. The view of the island from the town center is the iconic postcard image of Alter do Chão.

Alter do Chão is a place that will capture your heart with its natural beauty and peaceful vibe. Whether you're exploring the lush forests, lounging on the stunning river beaches, or soaking in the gorgeous sunsets, every moment feels like a piece of paradise. The friendly locals and the chance to connect with nature in such a close and personal way make this place truly unforgettable. If you're looking for a destination that offers both adventure and relaxation, Alter do Chão is the perfect choice — ready to welcome you with open arms.

All our posts about traveling in Brazil, be sure to check them out before planing a trip to my home country:

And here our posts about travel in other countries in Central and South America:

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